Finding Harlem Culture and Music at Ginny’s Supper Club

Finding Harlem Culture and Music at Ginny’s Supper Club
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
By JOHN ORTVED

WHILE “supper club” conjures up images of bandleaders and showgirls, this bustling new joint below the Red Rooster in Harlem pays homage to no particular decade or movement in the arts, but to the entirety of Harlem’s cultural influence, from poetry to soul to hip-hop. Ginny’s Supper Club is a place to evoke the Harlem of not only Count Basie and the Cotton Club, but also Nina Simone and Kool Moe Dee.

On a recent night, those lucky enough to book a table enjoyed a performance by Roberta Flack, along with fat steaks and their smoky rye cocktails. The rest were crushed by the bar, shuffling in place, some on beat, others trying to grab a glimpse.

THE PLACE Just north of 125th Street (near Sylvia’s), this underground club feels indulgent and sexy, with sumptuous details like chandeliers that evoke white bouquets and leather banquettes cheekily modeled after the back seats of old cars. But the most attention was paid to the stage, where a wood-paneled backdrop resembles a 1940s radio. Unfortunately, numerous pillars also obscure some views.

THE CROWD On a recent Wednesday night, the room was packed with a diverse mix of grown-ups (average age: about 45), similar to the crowd that fills Marcus Samuelsson’s buzzing restaurant upstairs, night after night. Waiting for the performance to begin, one young-ish couple managed to claim some real estate at the bar, where they ate their dinner standing.

GETTING IN Weekends become jammed, but most nights you can just trot downstairs to grab a spot at the bar. For a table, make a reservation well ahead. There is a $10 cover after 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

PLAYLIST The sound of Ginny’s is a survey of dance music: from jazz to Latin to classic soul to break beats. On Saturdays, DJ Cosi will dig deep into his archive for the rarest of grooves. Mondays feature a seven-piece band, the Rakiem Walker Project, playing hits from Duke Ellington, Otis Redding and Al Green.

DRINKS The bartenders and servers can be scarce, which is too bad. There is an excellent cocktail menu with signature drinks ($12 to $15), including a Harlem mule (Japanese whiskey, ginger, basil and Peychaud’s bitters). Small and big plates are also available, including a bobo chicken and waffle ($22).

For more information, see the article on NYTimes.com

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